Dyeing – methods of textile dyeing

Dyeing

Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add color and intricacy to textiles and increase product value. Most dyeing is performed either by the finishing division of vertically integrated textile companies or by specialty dyehouses. Specialty dyehouses operate either on a commission basis or purchase greige goods and finish them before selling them to apparel and other product manufacturers.

Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques, and equipment. Dyes used by the textile industry are largely synthetic, typically derived from coal tar and petroleum-based intermediates. Dyes are sold as powders, granules, pastes, and liquid dispersions, with concentrations of active ingredients ranging typically from 20 to 80 percent.

Methods of Dyeing

Dyeing can be performed using continuous or batch processes. In batch dyeing, a certain amount of textile substrate, usually 100 to 1,000 kilograms, is loaded into a dyeing machine and brought to equilibrium, or near equilibrium, with a solution containing the dye. Because the dyes have an affinity for the fibers, the dye molecules leave the dye solution and enter the fibers over a period of minutes to hours, depending on the type of dye and fabric used.

Auxiliary chemicals and controlled dyebath conditions (mainly temperature) accelerate and optimize the action. The dye is fixed in the fiber using heat and/or chemicals, and the tinted textile substrate is washed to remove unfixed dyes and chemicals. Common methods of a batch, or exhaust, dyeing include beam, beck, jet, and jig processing. Pad dyeing can be performed by either batch or continuous processes.

In continuous dyeing processes, textiles are fed continuously into a dye range at speeds usually between 50 and 250 meters per minute. Continuous dyeing accounts for about 60 percent of total yardage of product dyed in the industry (Snowden-Swan, 1995).

To be economical, this may require the dyer to process 10,000 meters of textiles or more per color, although specialty ranges are now being designed to run as little as 2,000 meters economically. Continuous dyeing processes typically consist of dye application, dye fixation
with chemicals or heat, and washing.

Dye fixation is a measure of the amount of the percentage of dye in a bath that will fix to the fibers of the textile material. Dye fixation on the fiber occurs much more rapidly in continuous
dying than in batch dyeing.

Each dyeing process requires different amounts of dye per unit of fabric to be dyed. This is significant since color and salts in wastewater from spent dyes are often a pollution concern for textile facilities. In addition, less dye used results in energy conservation and chemical savings. The amounts of dye used to depend on the dye are exhausted from the dyebaths which determine the required dyebath ratio.

The dyebath ratio is the ratio of the units of dye required per unit of fabric and typically ranges from 5 to 50 depending on the type of dye, dyeing system, and affinity of the dyes for the fibers. Dyeing processes may take place at any of several stages of the manufacturing process (fibers, yarn, piece-dyeing). Stock dyeing is used to dye fibers. Top dyeing is used to dye combed wool sliver. Yarn dyeing and piece dyeing, done after the yarn has been constructed into fabric.