Classification of Fabric Weave Patterns

The two major categories based on the types of weaves are Basic or Simple weave and Compound or complex weaves which are further categorized into the following categories:

Basic/Simple Weaves

1. Plain Weave

2. Twill Weave

3. Satin Weave

Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves

1. Dobby Weave

2. Jacquard Weave

3. Double Cloth & Double Weave

4. Pique

5. Pile Fabrics

6. Surface Figure Weaves

Basic/Simple Weaves

Plain Weave

Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles whereby each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least expensive to produce, reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm & wears well, less absorbent, abrasion resistant, used as background for printing/ embroidery

• Rib Weave fabrics: Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the filling direction or by more warp than
  filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin, broadcloth, taffeta.

• Basket Weave fabrics: Basketweave is made by treating two or more yarns as one in either the warp or weft or
  both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as firm as plain weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Eg 2X1, 2X2, 2X4, 3X2, 4X4. Oxford cloth is 2X1 & monk cloth is 4X4. Flat duck, hopsacking, Panama are other examples.

1. Twill Weave

   
   

   Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale.
   The direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right or a combination of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle recovery, durable & wears well. The direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness is required for twill weave.

• Right Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the right

• Left Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the left.

• Balanced Twill – the same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It is reversible. 2X2, 4X4

• Unbalanced Twill – have an uneven warp or filling yarn. It has a right or wrong.

• Broken Twill – combines right or left-hand twills

• Herringbone Twill – a series of inverted V’s are formed resembling the backbone of the
  herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics.

• Twill Angles – according to the angles of the diagonal line, Regular twill – 45° °

  Reclining twill – with smaller angles, Steep twill – with larger angles. E.g.: denim, herringbone, houndstooth

  Satin Weave

  
  

  Each warp/ filling yarn floats over 4 filling/ warp yarns & interlaces with 5th filling/ warp yarn, with a progression of interlacing by 2 to right or left (warp-faced/ weft faced). Luster (long floats), firm, durable (yarns packed closely together), pliable, wrinkle resistant,
  yarn slippage. Satin is warp faced. Sateen is weft-faced. 5 harness is required for a satin
  weave.

Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/ Figure/ Decorative weave

1. Dobby Weave

   Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout the fabric,
   produced by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby attachment on
   the loom. Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes that control
   the raising & lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harnesses.

2. Jacquard Weave

   Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using colored yarns and multi-weaves
   produced on a loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic weaves & their
   combination. Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards that are laced
   together in a continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home furnishing, apparel,
   elaborate & decorative fabrics. Eg Brocade, Damask, tapestry, brocatelle, matelasse

3. Surface Figure /Extra Yarn Weaves

   Extra warp or weft yarn introduced in fabric to produce designs at regular intervals.
   Between 2 motifs, extra yarn floats across the back of the fabric.

• Clipped / unclipped Spot – embroidery-like design is achieved through either extra warp or weft yarn. Long floats on the back when a cut is called Clipped Spot & when
  uncut – Unclipped Spot.

• Swivel – contains extra filling yarns. In this weave, the extra yarn is interlaced with the
  background at different places to avoid pulling. These are stronger than Spot
  weave.

• Lappet – contains extra warp yarns.

4. Pique

   Lightweight to heavyweight cotton fabric with a raised woven design. Lengthwise wales
   or cords on the face of fabric (formed by extra warp yarns) that are held in place by
   crosswise weft floats on the back of the fabric. Extra warp yarns (stuffer yarns) do not show on the face of the fabric. They are not interwoven but laid under the cords to emphasize the quilted effect. Made of dobby or jacquard loom. Eg waffle, huck toweling, granite, honeycomb, bedcord, pique

5. Double Cloth

   They are made with 3, 4 or 5 sets of yarn. Two fabrics are woven together on the same
   loom, one above the other & laced together with an extra set of warp or weft yarns called
   binder yarns (5 sets of yarns). Pile fabrics are commonly prepared by this method.
   Produces a variety of fabrics, reversible, stable, may have different color or design on the
   two sides. Used for upholstery, drapery, and heavy apparels.

Other Special Weaves

1. Crepe Weave

   Crinkled or pebbly surface. Irregular, indistinct pattern utilizing both plain and satin
   weave using dobby attachment are made. Few crepe weave fabric is available.
   Other crepe fabrics are created using crepe yarn which is highly twisted (up to 65 tpi).
   Textured yarns, bicomponent yarns (uneven shrinkage), embossing, stamping crepe like
   effect are being used. In all these plain weaves, synthetic fibers and thermoplastic property
   are used.

2. Leno Weave

   It is the form of weaving in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between the picks. The warp yarns are paired. With a special leno or doup, attachment warp yarns are crossed/ twisted over each other in pairs around each pick, firmly holding the filling yarn
   in the figure – 8 loops formed. Leno fabrics are open and gauge like. Leno weave is
   useful in reducing yarn slippage, greater firmness & strength than plain weave. Uses-
   curtain, gauge, marquisette, grenadine, fruit sacks, rice net, mosquito net, mesh.

3. Colour & Weave Effect

   A pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of
   differently colored yarns in both warp and filling.

   Hound’s tooth – 2 up, 2 down, 45° left-hand twill, and a group of 4 yarns of one color are
   arranged in both warp & filling followed by the other color.

4. Lappet weave

   This is the type of weave in which floating threads are carried on the surface of the fabric and introduced at intervals to form the patterns. The floats are not long and the patterns are usually geometric, i.e. zigzag stripes in white yarn on a colored plain weave ground.

5. Novelty weave

   Any weave which varies or combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and twill.

6. Swivel weaving

   A fabric in which figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft threads into base fabric to produce small clipped woven-in-spot effects. The figuring yarn is fed from a series of shuttles mounted over the top of the weaving surface.

7. Tablet Weaving

   It is a method of making woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics, where the warp is controlled by tablets made of thin, stiff material, e.g. cardboard, plastic, bone, etc. Tablets are usually about 5 to 10 cm square, although other shapes, e.g. triangles, hexagons, etc. are also used. Each tablet has a hole at each corner through the warp yarns are threaded. Rotating the tablets controls the rise and fall of the warp yarns.

8. Woven Pile Fabrics

   3-dimensional fabrics, utilizing 3 sets of yarns, warp & weft to form base fabric & extra
   set of warp or weft yarns to form pile or loop surface. Extra set of yarns forming the pile
   may be cut to produce an erect pile on the face of fabric – Cut Pile – velvet or left uncut
   to form loops on one or both sides of fabric- Uncut pile – terry.

• Warp pile fabric – velvet, plushes, terry, velour.

• Weft pile fabric – velveteen, corduroy

9. Triaxial Fabric

   Triaxial fabrics have 3 set of yarns, 2 warp & 1 filling. The warp yarns are placed
   diagonally to each other by special attachments, through which the filling yarn is
   interlaced. It is an ancient weave used in basket weaving. Stability against stretching in
   all direction even bias, strong resistance, resistance to shear forces & raveling. Lighter,
   longer life & less material required than biaxial fabrics. Three major weaves – basic
   triaxial weave, basic basket triaxial weave & biplane weave.

   Uses – aerospace, industrial fabrics, sailcloth, balloon, truck covers, uniforms &
   outerwear.

10. Terry Fabric

    A warp pile fabric in which loops are created, without positive assistance, by varying the relative positions of the fell and the reed. A high tension is applied to the ground warp and a very low tension to the pile warp.

11. Narrow Fabric

    This is the type of any textile fabric made by interlacing fibers or yarns which does not exceed 45 cm ( in the U. K.) and does not exceed 30 cm ( in the U. S. A. and other countries). Narrow fabrics are characterized by the edges, which are the essential feature.